Tuesday, December 31, 2013

EPA Proposes Final R-22 Phaseout Timeline

Peter Powell


The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has proposed a final timeline for the phaseout in production of virgin hydrochloro-fluorocarbon (HCFC)-22. The proposal picks Stamer up on a previous timeline in production that allowed 62.8 million pounds of new R-22 in 2013 and 51 million pounds in 2014.

What the EPA is calling its “preferred HCFC- 22 consumption allocation for 2015-2019” shows an allowance of 30 million pounds in 2015, 24 million pounds in 2016, 18 million pounds in 2017, 12 million pounds in 2018, 6 million pounds in 2019, and zero in 2020.

“Under this approach, the annual decrease in allowances would be the same every year such that there is a constant annual decrease in allocation from 2015 to 2020,” said the EPA, in a statement.

Two Variations

The EPA also advanced what it’s termed two ‘variations’ to its phase down plan.

The first starts the final phase down at 27 million pounds in 2015, then drops it to 18 million pounds in 2016, and 9 million pounds in 2017, before ending all production in 2018.According to the EPA, this is being proposed to greater encourage reclamation of existing supplies of R-22 and retrofitting R-22 systems with alternative refrigerants.

The other variation, which is being labeled as an “estimation approach,” allows about 50 million pounds in 2015 and bases the phase down to 2020 on “estimates of servicing need, recovery, and reuse, which could also account for transitions to alternatives and any estimates of existing R-22 inventory,” according to a statement from the EPA.

A 60-day comment period takes effect once the proposed rule is published in the Federal Register.As of Dec. 16, 2013, the proposed rule had not been published, which means the comment period could extend into February 2014, at the earliest, thus a final EPA rule may not come until mid-2014.

Contractor Considerations

There will probably not be any short-term effect on a contractor’s ability to get R-22 when needed as the industry is currently sitting on an estimated 100 million pounds of inventoried R-22, based on input garnered by the EPA from large producers and importers.

This comes at a time in which no new R-22 systems are coming to the market. The air conditioning sector embraced HFC-410A over R-22 long ago. The refrigeration sector, especially in supermarkets, is rapidly moving away from R-22.In addition, end users are demanding, and contractors are utilizing, better leak-detection and tightening practices. In fact, the EPA, through its Greenchill program, is offering special awards and recognition to supermarkets utilizing alternative refrigerants and leak-tight systems.

Industry Comments

George Koutsaftes, business director, heat transfer products for Honeywell, said, “Honeywell recognizes and applauds the effort the EPA is making to understand industry concerns and develop a rule that is workable.

“It is generally understood the market was in a state of oversupply during 2013 and the EPA proposal suggests current channel inventories are now above where they were at this point in 2012. The resulting downward pressure on R-22 price has slowed the adoption of alternative products as many end users deferred or cancelled retrofit activity. Restrictions on allowances are required to restore the supply and demand imbalance, to resume forward progress in the conversion to alternative refrigerants, to increase recovery and reclamation, and to be prepared for no HCFC-22 allocation in 2020.”

Jay Kestenbaum, senior vice president of sales and purchasing for Airgas Inc., said, “The EPA offered several proposals as a way of focusing everyone on several specific options rather than leaving it wide open and subjecting them to so many different possible answers that they would have a bigger problem in deciding what to do. If they get a significant group of responses that favor one proposal, it would be much easier for them to decide on an action based on that response than if they get a wide range of responses across many different scenarios.”

Matt Ritter, director of government affairs for Arkema Inc., agreed with floating multiple options. “Considering that this will be the final HCFC rule, we believe it is indeed important to consider a number of scenarios before locking in on a final decision.”

Some companies are opting for the quickest phaseout possible.

“Of the options that the EPA has put forth for the 2015-2019 allocation, the smallest option — the three-year option with the smallest amount of allocation — is still too large,” said Gordon McKinney, vice president and COO, ICOR Intl. Inc. “Our opinion, based on the amount of product that we see in the market right now and the significant impact that alternative refrigerants have had on the industry, is that the R-22 service requirements are far smaller than what anyone ever imagined and that the R-22 allocation could be cut down to nearly zero for 2015 and we could still survive.”

Kevin Zugibee, chairman and CEO of Hudson Technologies Inc., believes that the EPA’s phaseout plans are not accomplishing its own goals of sustaining growth in recycling and reclamation.

“The best way to achieve those goals would be to provide no additional allowances after 2014, and that the reclamation industry could fully support the aftermarket starting in 2015,” he said. “However, of the options presented in the proposed rule, we believe that providing for final phase out by 2018 is the best option presented for achieving this goal.”

ACCA

Charlie McCrudden, senior vice president of government relations for the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA), said, “ACCA is pleased that the notice of proposed rulemaking was released early enough to allow the EPA time to take comments and finalize the rule before the regulatory period begins.”

He joined others in favoring a linear timeline. “A linear drawdown is preferred to the estimation approach, no matter the starting point for 2015.The estimation approach is less certain and relies on EPA’s ability to respond to what could be rapidly changing — and possibly incorrect — market conditions.”

McCrudden also noted that the proposed rulemaking allows for further resolution of matters related to dry-shipping of R-22 units and no venting enforcement.

The dry-shipping issue arose in 2010 with a perceived loophole regarding continued production of R-22 condensing units produced as components after a ban on shipping entire R-22 systems took effect.

McCrudden said, “ACCA welcomes the request for comments on whether EPA should consider banning the dry-shipped R-22 condensing units through a separate rulemaking process. A longstanding petition that looks to end the allowance to manufacture and install dry-shipped units as replacement parts after the 2010 milestone needs to be resolved.”

And, he noted, EPA is seeking to find better ways to enforce bans on venting refrigerants.

“ACCA is also pleased that the EPA is requesting comments on ways to maximize compliance with Section 608 requirements. While most HVACR technicians abide by the rules in place, the playing field is tipped in favor of the bad actors who are not certified or purposefully vent refrigerants when no enforcement exists,” he said.
http://goo.gl/XqpNa5


Thursday, December 26, 2013

HEAT PUMP TIPS
If you have a Heat Pump, you may not know all you should know to make it as efficient as possible. To get the full benefits of the Heat Pump, here are some tips.

The heat pump is a very efficient piece of equipment - today’s units are over 300% efficient as compared to a very good gas heater at 95%.  It can do this because it does not burn fuel to CREATE heat - it uses much less fuel to MOVE heat.  It pumps it from outside in during the winter and from inside out during the summer.
Your Heat Pump, like any furnace, circulates and reheats room air.  Most furnaces raise the temperature of the air passing through by about 50°, giving you a 120° supply temperature with your thermostat at 70° (70°+50°=120°).  A heat pump, on the other hand, is designed to give a lower 25° boost to the air passing through, thus delivering a 95° supply (70°+25°=95°).  This lower supply temperature is high enough to heat the house, but is close to body temperature and can, at times, feel cool if you are sitting or standing in the air flow.  You can see that raising or lowering the thermostat setting also raises and lowers the supply temperature, so we suggest keeping your thermostat at 69-70° for starters so that the supply temperature is high enough to keep you comfortable.

Because the supply air temperature is lower than that of a gas or oil furnace, the Heat Pump may run longer to deliver the same amount of heat.  When it gets close to 30° outside, the Heat Pump will run almost continuously.  Remember that it is designed to do so.

You actually have two furnaces - the Heat Pump, and the back up coils that look and act just like your toaster or oven coils.  The Heat Pump is very efficient and inexpensive to run but the backup is not as efficient and is more expensive to run.  As the outside temperature drops to about 30°, the heat pump starts to need help from the backup.  Your thermostat will automatically add back up heat as needed, and that proportion increases from no back up at 30° to all back up at close to 0°.  Remember that this happens without any help on your part.

Raising and lowering a heat pump thermostat will actually raise your bill because it forces the more expensive back up to come on when it would not normally be needed.  So be sure to set your thermostat on a comfortable temperature and not move it.

The "emergency" switch on your thermostat is for "emergencies".  It is designed to give you heat even if the Heat Pump is damaged or out of commission.  When the switch is flipped, your efficient Heat Pump is shut off and the house heats only with the not-so-efficient back up.  This will raise your heating costs, so remember only to use the "emergency" switch if your Heat Pump has a real emergency.

Your outside unit will occasionally have a frost or ice buildup.  This is normal and temporary.  If the ice or frost persists for more than an hour, call your contractor for service.

Your filter is designed to keep airborne dirt from clogging your heating coils inside the heat pump.  If the filter itself gets clogged, then the heat pump (or any furnace) can't move enough air, and it won't heat your house properly.  Check the filter every two weeks when the house is new, and then less frequently as you see it is not so dirty.  Eventually check it three times a season - both heating and cooling season.

A Heat Pump is about the least expensive way to heat your house, so consider one of these “modern marvels”.

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

RGF Indoor Air Quality DVD - 2011

Indoor Air Quality

Poor Indoor Air Quality Can Threaten Your Health
Most people spend over 90% of their time indoors, not knowing that the air they are breathing may be more polluted than the air outside. The Environmental Protection Agency has reported that indoor air pollution levels can be 100 times higher than the air outdoors.
Breathing contaminated air puts the health of you and your family at risk. In fact, the American College of Allergist says that 50% of illnesses are caused or aggravated by polluted indoor air. So take control of your indoor air quality by reducing pollutants that can contribute to headache, lung irritation and fatigue as well as more long-term conditions such as asthma, allergies and infectious diseases.
Indoor Air Quality Facts
  • People spend 75-90% of their time indoors
  • Exposure to airborne contamination is considerable.
  • 50% of all major office buildings have contaminated heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems (HVAC). If not properly maintained, they are a hotbed for growth of molds and bacteria.
  • Each person inhales over 3,500 gallons of air each day. Children inhale more particles for their size then adolescents or adults.
  • Polluted air causes 94% of all respiratory problems.
  • More than 31 million Americans have been diagnosed with asthma, about 1/3 are children under 18.
  • About 40,000 dust mites, a common household allergen, can live in one ounce of dust.
  • An estimated 10-15% of the entire population may be allergic to cat or dog dander.
  • A person sheds up to 700,000 skin flakes per day.

Indoor Air Pollutants
There are 3 types of indoor air pollutants - Particulates, Microbials and Gases. Therefore, in order to make an apples-to-apples comparison, we must compare what each type of indoor air quality product is attempting to do. There is an industry rule of thumb:
"If it is alive you have to kill it."
"If it is dead you have to trap it."
Particulates
Particulates are tiny particles suspended in the air. Common particulates include residential pollen, dust mites, dust, smoke and dander (skin flakes). Particulate diameters are measured in microns and range from .001 to 1,000 microns. These dimensions represent the continuum from a few molecules up to the size where particles can no longer be airborne.
Microbials
These are bacteria, germs, viruses, fungi, spores and mold. Although bacteria are small in size and usually microscopic, they have an amazing ability to do damage to all living organisms including humans. Many everyday illnesses are also caused by viruses like the common cold or the flu. Mold can be a dangerous allergen, cause infections, and destroy property requiring extensive repair and rebuilding.
Gases
Indoor odors are caused by things like pets, cooking, garbage exist in every home and office. Gases, such as benzene, formaldehyde, chloroform, hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, etc., are released from furniture, cabinets, carpets, cleaning chemicals, insulation, insect sprays, hair sprays, etc. Manufactures use chemicals to make these products and they off gas, or evaporate, these chemicals into the air in your home.



Monday, December 16, 2013

NEW CARRIER® PERFORMANCE™ 92 GAS FURNACE PROVIDES BOTH ENERGY AND ELECTRICAL EFFICIENCY
Carrier announces the release of the Performance 92 59SP2A condensing gas furnace with up to 92.1% Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE). The Performance 92 gas furnace is powered by an electronically commutated motor (ECM) multiple-speed blower motor for efficient operation all year long in heating, cooling and continuous fan operation. Carrier, the world’s leader in high technology heating, air-conditioning and refrigeration solutions, is a part of UTC Climate, Controls & Security, a unit of United Technologies Corp. (NYSE: UTX).
The Performance 92 features four-way multipoise installation flexibility, and is available in eight model sizes. The units can be vented for direct vent/two-pipe, ventilated combustion air, or single-pipe applications. All units meet California Air Quality Management District emission requirements, are design certified in Canada, and are certified for mobile/manufactured home use. In addition, these units meet ENERGY STAR® regional standards in southern states.
The furnace control board allows the system to connect with a Performance™ series Edge® programmable thermostat for responsive operation and the Carrier SmartEvap™ technology moisture-control function, which can lower the humidity level in the home by nearly 10 percent when paired with a compatible condensing unit. By turning off the blower motor for a predetermined amount of time immediately following a dehumidification cycle, SmartEvap technology ensures that moisture removed from the home during the dehumidification cycle remains out of the home by allowing any condensation to drip from the indoor evaporator coil instead of reintroducing that condensation right back into the home.
“The new Performance 92 gas furnaces are an ideal addition to Carrier’s mid-tier offerings,” said Tom Archer, senior product manager, Carrier. “These units can achieve an impressive 92.1% AFUE rating and the ECM blower motors run quietly and efficiently, making them a welcome entry-point into the Performance line. Couple that with meeting regional ENERGY STAR ratings, and this latest furnace line presents significant benefits to the homeowner.”
The Performance 92 is part of the latest generation of condensing furnaces that are easier to install than previous generations, allowing for greater flexibility to the homeowner. Enhanced indoor air quality in the home is made simpler with an optional media filter cabinet. When installed as part of the system, this cabinet allows for the easy and convenient addition of a Carrier high-efficiency air filter.


Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Most U.S. homes are heated with either furnaces or boilers. Furnaces heat air and distribute the heated air through the house using ducts. Boilers heat water, and provide either hot water or steam for heating. Steam is distributed via pipes to steam radiators, and hot water can be distributed via baseboard radiators or radiant floor systems, or can heat air via a coil. Steam boilers operate at a higher temperature than hot water boilers, and are inherently less efficient, but high-efficiency versions of all types of furnaces and boilers are currently available.

UNDERSTANDING THE EFFICIENCY RATING OF FURNACES AND BOILERS

A central furnace or boiler's efficiency is measured by annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE). The Federal Trade Commission requires new furnaces or boilers to display their AFUE so consumers can compare heating efficiencies of various models. AFUE is a measure of how efficient the appliance is in converting the energy in its fuel to heat over the course of a typical year.
Specifically, AFUE is the ratio of annual heat output of the furnace or boiler compared to the total annual fossil fuel energy consumed by a furnace or boiler. An AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the energy in the fuel becomes heat for the home and the other 10% escapes up the chimney and elsewhere. AFUE doesn't include the heat losses of the duct system or piping, which can be as much as 35% of the energy for output of the furnace when ducts are located in the attic, garage, or other partially conditioned or unconditioned space.
An all-electric furnace or boiler has no flue loss through a chimney. The AFUE rating for an all-electric furnace or boiler is between 95% and 100%. The lower values are for units installed outdoors because they have greater jacket heat loss. However, despite their high efficiency, the higher cost of electricity in most parts of the country makes all-electric furnaces or boilers an uneconomic choice. If you are interested in electric heating, consider installing a heat pump system.
The minimum allowed AFUE rating for a non-condensing fossil-fueled, warm-air furnace is currently 78% for all types of furnaces except for those designed and manufactured specifically for use in mobile homes, for which the minimum AFUE is 75%. In  the future, minimum AFUE requirements for furnaces will be based on the type of fuel consumed (i.e., gas, oil, or electricity), whether the unit is non-weatherized (i.e., intended for installation indoors) or weatherized (i.e., intended for installation outdoors), and whether the unit is designed specifically for use in a mobile home. 
Beginning on May 1, 2013, for non-weatherized furnaces and January 1, 2015, for weatherized furnaces, the minimum AFUE requirements will be as follows:
PRODUCT CLASSMINIMUM AFUE RATING
Non-weatherized gas furnaces (not including mobile home furnaces)80%
Mobile home gas furnaces80%
Non-weatherized oil-fired furnaces (not including mobile home furnaces)83%
Mobile Home oil-fired furnaces*75%
Weatherized gas furnaces81%
Weatherized oil-fired furnaces*78%
Electric furnaces*78%
*The minimum AFUE requirements for these product classes are unchanged from the current requirements.
In addition to the minimum AFUE ratings shown in the table above, all non-weatherized gas furnaces and mobile home gas furnaces installed in the northern  half of the United States must have a minimum AFUE of 90%. (In these ratings, the northern states are Alaska, Colorado, Connecticut, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Dakota, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Dakota, Utah, Vermont, Washington, West Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming.)
For boilers, the minimum AFUE rating requirements vary based on the type of fuel used and the heating medium. The minimum AFUE rating for a gas-fired hot water boiler is 82%; the minimum AFUE rating for a gas-fired steam boiler is 80%; the minimum AFUE rating for an oil-fired hot water boiler is 84%; and the minimum AFUE rating for an oil-fired steam boiler is 82%. In addition, gas-fired boilers are not permitted to have a constant burning pilot, and hot water boilers are required to have an automatic means for adjusting the water temperature to match the heating load. 
A condensing furnace or boiler condenses the water vapor produced in the combustion process and uses the heat from this condensation. The AFUE rating for a condensing furnace or boiler can be much higher (by more than 10 percentage points) than a non-condensing furnace or boiler. Although condensing models cost more than non-condensing models, a condensing furnace or boiler can save you money in fuel costs over the approximately 15- to 30-year life of the unit and is a particularly wise investment in cold climates.
You can identify and compare a system's efficiency by not only its AFUE but also by its equipment features.
Old, low-efficiency heating systems:
  • Natural draft that creates a flow of combustion gases
  • Continuous pilot light
  • Heavy heat exchanger
  • 56% to 70% AFUE.
Mid-efficiency heating systems:
  • Exhaust fan controls the flow of combustion air and combustion gases more precisely
  • Electronic ignition (no pilot light)
  • Compact size and lighter weight to reduce cycling losses
  • Small-diameter flue pipe
  • 80% to 83% AFUE.
High-efficiency heating systems:
  • Condensing flue gases in a second heat exchanger for extra efficiency
  • Sealed combustion
  • 90% to 98.5% AFUE.

RETROFITTING YOUR FURNACE OR BOILER

Furnaces and boilers can be retrofitted to increase their efficiency. These upgrades improve the safety and efficiency of otherwise sound, older systems. The costs of retrofits should be carefully weighed against the cost of a new boiler or furnace, especially if replacement is likely within a few years or if you wish to switch to a different system for other reasons, such as adding air conditioning. If you choose to replace your heating system, you'll have the opportunity to install equipment that incorporates the most energy-efficient heating technologies available.
Retrofits are fuel-specific, so see the following sections for retrofit information:
Other retrofitting options that can improve a system's energy efficiency include installingprogrammable thermostatsupgrading ductwork in forced-air systems, and adding zone control for hot-water systems, an option discussed in Heat Distribution Systems.

REPLACING YOUR FURNACE OR BOILER

Although older furnace and boiler systems had efficiencies in the range of 56% to 70%, modern conventional heating systems can achieve efficiencies as high as 98.5%, converting nearly all the fuel to useful heat for your home. Energy efficiency upgrades and a new high-efficiency heating system can often cut your fuel bills and your furnace's pollution output in half. Upgrading your furnace or boiler from 56% to 90% efficiency in an average cold-climate house will save 1.5 tons of carbon dioxide emissions each year if you heat with gas, or 2.5 tons if you heat with oil.
If your furnace or boiler is old, worn out, inefficient, or significantly oversized, the simplest solution is to replace it with a modern high-efficiency model. Old coal burners that were switched over to oil or gas are prime candidates for replacement, as well as gas furnaces with pilot lights rather than electronic ignitions. Newer systems may be more efficient but are still likely to be oversized, and can often be modified to lower their operating capacity.
Before buying a new furnace or boiler or modifying your existing unit, first make every effort to improve the energy efficiency of your home, then have a heating contractor size your furnace. Energy-efficiency improvements will save money on a new furnace or boiler, because you can purchase a smaller unit. A properly sized furnace or boiler will operate most efficiently, and you'll want to choose a dependable unit and compare the warranties of each furnace or boiler you’re considering.
When shopping for high-efficiency furnaces and boilers, look for the ENERGY STAR® label. If you live in a cold climate, it usually makes sense to invest in the highest-efficiency system. In milder climates with lower annual heating costs, the extra investment required to go from 80% to 90% to 95% efficiency may be hard to justify.
You can estimate the annual savings from heating system replacements by using the table on this page, which assumes that both heating systems have the same heat output. However, most older systems are oversized, and will be particularly oversized if you significantly improve the energy efficiency of your home. Because of this additional benefit, your actual savings in upgrading to a new system could be much higher than indicated in the table.
Specify a sealed combustion furnace or boiler, which will bring outside air directly into the burner and exhaust flue gases (combustion products) directly to the outside, without the need for a draft hood or damper. Furnaces and boilers that are not sealed-combustion units draw heated air into the unit for combustion and then send that air up the chimney, wasting the energy that was used to heat the air. Sealed-combustion units avoid that problem and also pose no risk of introducing dangerous combustion gases into your house. In furnaces that are not sealed-combustion units, backdrafting of combustion gases can be a big problem.
High-efficiency sealed-combustion units generally produce an acidic exhaust gas that is not suitable for old, unlined chimneys, so the exhaust gas should either be vented through a new duct or the chimney should be lined to accommodate the acidic gas (see the section on maintaining proper ventilation below).
Annual Estimated Savings for Every $100 of Fuel Costs by Increasing Your Heating Equipment Efficiency*
Existing System AFUE
New/Upgraded System AFUE
55%
60%
65%
70%
75%
80%
85%
90%
95%
50%
$9.09
$16.76
$23.07
$28.57
$33.33
$37.50
$41.24
$44.24
$47.36
55%
----
$8.33
$15.38
$21.42
$26.66
$31.20
$35.29
$38.88
$42.10
60%
----
----
$7.69
$14.28
$20.00
$25.00
$29.41
$33.33
$37.80
65%
----
----
----
$7.14
$13.33
$18.75
$23.52
$27.77
$31.57
70%
----
----
----
----
$6.66
$12.50
$17.64
$22.22
$26.32
75%
----
----
----
----
----
$6.50
$11.76
$16.66
$21.10
80%
----
----
----
----
----
----
$5.88
$11.11
$15.80
85%
----
----
----
----
----
----
----
$5.55
$10.50
90%
----
----
----
----
----
----
----
----
$5.30
*Assuming the same heat output

MAINTAINING FURNACES AND BOILERS

The following maintenance should be provided by a heating system professional.
All systems:
  • Check the condition of your vent connection pipe and chimney. Parts of the venting system may have deteriorated over time. Chimney problems can be expensive to repair, and may help justify installing new heating equipment that won't use the existing chimney.
  • Check the physical integrity of the heat exchanger. Leaky boiler heat exchangers leak water and are easy to spot. Furnace heat exchangers mix combustion gases with house air when they leak—an important safety reason to have them inspected.
  • Adjust the controls on the boiler or furnace to provide optimum water and air temperature settings for both efficiency and comfort.
  • If you're considering replacing or retrofitting your existing heating system, have the technician perform a combustion-efficiency test.
Forced Air Systems:
  • Check the combustion chamber for cracks
  • Test for carbon monoxide (CO) and remedy if found
  • Adjust blower control and supply-air temperature
  • Clean and oil the blower
  • Remove dirt, soot, or corrosion from the furnace or boiler
  • Check fuel input and flame characteristics, and adjust if necessary
  • Seal connections between the furnace and main ducts.
Hot Water Systems:
  • Test pressure-relief valve
  • Test high-limit control
  • Inspect pressure tank, which should be filled with air, to verify that it's not filled with water
  • Clean the heat exchanger.
Steam Systems:
  • Drain some water from the boiler to remove sediments and improve the heat exchange efficiency
  • Test low-water cutoff safety control and high-limit safety control
  • Drain the float chamber to remove sediments, which will prevent the low-water cutoff control from sediment clogs
  • Analyze boiler water and add chemicals as needed to control deposits and corrosion
  • Clean the heat exchanger
  • See also steam radiators.

MAINTAINING PROPER VENTILATION FOR COMBUSTION SYSTEMS

Anytime you maintain, retrofit, or replace a gas or oil heating system you need to be concerned with air quality. Combustion air is needed by all oil and gas heating systems to support the combustion process. This air is provided in some homes by unintentional air leaks, or by air ducts that connect to the outdoors. The combustion process creates several byproducts that are potentially hazardous to human health and can cause deterioration in your home. You can protect yourself from these hazards, as well as maintain energy efficiency, by ensuring that your chimney system functions properly and that your heating system is properly ventilated. In some cases, installing a sealed-combustion furnace or boiler can also help.

CHIMNEYS

Properly functioning chimney systems will carry combustion byproducts out of the home. Therefore, chimney problems put you at risk of having these byproducts, such as carbon monoxide, spill into your home.
Most older furnaces and boilers have naturally drafting chimneys. The combustion gases exit the home through the chimney using only their buoyancy combined with the chimney's height. Naturally drafting chimneys often have problems exhausting the combustion gases because of chimney blockage, wind or pressures inside the home that overcome the buoyancy of the gases.
Atmospheric, open-combustion furnaces and boilers, as well as fan-assisted furnaces and boilers, should be vented into masonry chimneys, metal double-wall chimneys, or another type of manufactured chimney. Masonry chimneys should have a fireclay, masonry liner or a retrofitted metal flue liner.
Many older chimneys have deteriorated liners or no liners at all and must be relined during furnace or boiler replacement. A chimney should be relined when any of the following changes are made to the combustion heating system:
  • When you replace an older furnace or boiler with a newer one that has an AFUE of 80% or more. These mid-efficiency appliances have a greater risk of depositing acidic condensation droplets in chimneys, and the chimneys must be prepared to handle this corrosive threat. The new chimney liner should be sized to accommodate both the new heating appliance and the combustion water heater (if present) by the installer.
  • When you replace an older furnace or boiler with a new 90+ AFUE appliance or a heat pump. In this case, the heating appliance will no longer vent into the old chimney, and if the combustion water heater is present it will now vent through an oversized chimney. This oversized chimney can lead to condensation and inadequate draft. The new chimney liner should be sized for the water heater alone, or the water heater in some cases can be vented directly through the wall.

OTHER VENTILATION CONCERNS

Some fan-assisted, non-condensing furnaces and boilers, installed between 1987 and 1993, may be vented horizontally through high-temperature plastic vent pipe (not PVC pipe, which is safely used in condensing furnaces). This type of venting has been recalled and should be replaced by stainless steel vent pipe. If horizontal venting was used, an additional draft-inducing fan may be needed near the vent outlet to create adequate draft. Floor furnaces may have special venting problems because their vent connector exits the furnace close to the floor and may travel 10 to 30 feet before reaching a chimney. Check to see if this type of venting or the floor furnace itself needs replacement. If you smell gases, you have a venting problem that could affect your health. Contact your local utility or heating contractor to have this venting problem repaired immediately.